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Alumier Skin Experts / February 27, 2020

Dermaplaning 101

What is dermaplaning?

Excuse me while I set up my scalpel… Wait, what? If you’ve ever wondered what the increasingly popular treatment known as dermaplaning is all about, allow us to fill you in. For starters, it’s executed using a scalpel, but not to make any incisions: The trained aesthetician or nurse uses the edge of a No.10 blade on a No. 3 scalpel in a precise manual exfoliation technique to remove vellus hairs, debris and dead cells from the surface of the skin.

What is it used for?

The treatment itself is usually combined with a facial or chemical-peel procedure, beginning by preparing the skin with a thorough cleanse. It is an excellent prep for chemical peels and other modalities like IPL, as it removes that superficial layer of dead skin cells and vellus hair, which enhances absorption of actives into the skin and reveals active chromophores for optimal contact with equipment. Dermaplaning often replaces the phase of a mechanical exfoliation and much like microdermabrasion requires no downtime.

Who is it best suited to?

There are no limitations with regard to skin types, in fact even the most sensitive skin can benefit from dermaplaning. A trained professional will know not to employ this technique on active acne, as the spread of bacteria from pustules can worsen the symptoms of acne entirely. In addition, the blade may open active lesions, causing inflammation and a surge of breakouts.

What’s the appeal?

The huge popularity of this treatment is due, in part, to the instant gratification it provides. It helps to improve texture through gentle, controlled exfoliation in a treatment that takes less than 45 minutes. (The dermaplaning itself only takes 10 to 15 minutes.)

Dermaplaning promotes a healthy, radiant glow, without having to rely on layers of foundation. The superficial aesthetic benefits are just as welcome as the therapeutic ones because with better absorption of active ingredients come better, faster results.

Are there any cons?

So, why are some people hesitant? Well, besides the obvious reason of putting a scalpel to the face, they are concerned about having thick, dense hair grow back all over the face, similar to what happens to your legs when you shave them. (The number-one reason cited on Google for not having a procedure, is fear.)

How do you overcome them?

When it comes to engaging clients and offering dermaplaning, this is something we need to cover at the beginning of the conversation. The hair that is being removed from the face is very fine and known as vellus hair. It is so thin, that removing it with a dermaplaning blade at a 45-degree angle will have no impact on how it looks when it grows back. It is important to be able to identify the difference between vellus hair and regular hair, as a trained professional is easily able to do.

To sum up

In summary, dermaplaning allows for gentle exfoliation of even the most sensitive skin types, with no downtime, revealing an instantly smoother and more luminous complexion. It is a therapeutically beneficial treatment to add to your roster, alone or in combination, with high satisfaction rates.

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